What Should My Pool Chemical Levels Be?
For most pools, aim for free chlorine of 1 to 3 ppm, pH of 7.2 to 7.6, total alkalinity of 80 to 120 ppm, calcium hardness of 200 to 400 ppm, and stabilizer (cyanuric acid) of 30 to 50 ppm. Salt pools run stabilizer at 60 to 80 ppm and salt at about 3,000 to 3,500 ppm. In Bakersfield, hard water and summer heat make calcium and stabilizer creep up over time, so test them every month or two.
What are the ideal ranges?
- Free chlorine: 1 to 3 ppm. In peak summer, or when stabilizer is on the high side, 2 to 4 ppm.
- Combined chlorine: 0.5 ppm or less.
- pH: 7.2 to 7.6.
- Total alkalinity: 80 to 120 ppm.
- Calcium hardness: 200 to 400 ppm for plaster pools, 150 to 250 ppm for vinyl and fiberglass.
- Stabilizer (cyanuric acid): 30 to 50 ppm, or 60 to 80 ppm for salt pools.
- Salt, for salt pools only: usually 3,000 to 3,500 ppm. Check your system's manual.
- Phosphates: the lower the better. Ask us about treatment if they test high.
What does each one do?
- Free chlorine kills germs and algae. It is the number that matters most day to day.
- pH is how acidic the water is. Out of range, it irritates eyes, weakens chlorine, and causes scale or corrosion.
- Alkalinity is the cushion that keeps pH from swinging.
- Calcium hardness protects plaster. Too low and the water eats plaster. Too high and it leaves scale.
- Stabilizer works like sunscreen for chlorine. Too little and the sun burns chlorine off. Too much and chlorine stops working well.
What is different about Bakersfield pools?
Our tap water is hard, and evaporation leaves the minerals behind, so calcium climbs all summer. Chlorine tablets add stabilizer every time they dissolve, and after a long season many local pools have too much. High pH plus high calcium plus hot water is the recipe for white scale on tile. Keeping pH at 7.4 to 7.6 and alkalinity toward the low end of its range helps, and so does checking calcium and stabilizer every month or two.
In what order should I fix the levels?
Test first. Then adjust alkalinity, then pH, then calcium and stabilizer if they need it. Chlorine or shock goes in last. Add one chemical at a time with the pump running, wait 30 minutes to an hour between them, and never mix chemicals together. Retest basic changes after 4 to 6 hours, and bigger changes after 24 hours.
How often should I test my pool water?
At home, test chlorine and pH two to three times a week in summer. Bring a sample to us every one to two weeks during swim season, and at least once a month in winter.
What should my chlorine level be?
1 to 3 ppm of free chlorine is the usual target. The right number for your pool depends on your stabilizer level, and we will tell you when we test your water.
What happens if my stabilizer is too high?
Chlorine gets weak and slow, even when the test looks fine. Over 100 ppm usually means replacing part of the water.
Are test strips accurate enough?
They are a quick guide, but the colors are hard to read, and strips go bad with heat and moisture. Use them between visits and bring a sample in for an exact test.
Don't cry, we can help
Bring a water sample to Top Dog Pool Supply. Local pool owners get a free water test on our Taylor Xpress Flex system, and we'll tell you what to add, and how much, for your pool's size.
Visit us at 7440 District Blvd Suite B, Bakersfield, CA 93313, or call (661) 664-9000. We're open Monday to Friday 9 to 5, Saturday 9 to 4, and Sundays 10 to 4 from April through September.